NEW ORLEANS (WGNO) — New Orleans has always been known for its rich history and diverse culture. It’s also known for its melting pot of flavors and unique foods.
Over time, several foods have put Louisiana on the culinary map and found a home in New Orleans and Louisiana-style restaurants.
A crowd favorite within a line-up of Louisiana classics like red beans and rice and po-boys is gumbo. A dish comprised of a roux, broth, seafood or meat and rice…or potato salad? Tomatoes maybe?
With different varieties of the dish scattered around Louisiana, what is the history behind gumbo and is there really a right way to prepare it?
New Orleans Culinary and Hospitality Institute Chef Instructor Rebecca Klaskala said the origins of the dish date back to 1790, with influence from West Africa making its way to Louisiana.
From this influence, dishes like rice and beans, chicory with coffee and beignets began to emerge.
Years later, in a second wave of influence, Klaskala said African okra stews with vegetables began to enter the food scene with roux coming from French influence.
Over time, what we now know as gumbo was born. She said the dish’s origin reflects the melting pot of culture and flavors present in Louisiana and New Orleans.
When it comes to the debate of potato salad or rice, she believes, “There’s a place for both at the table.”
Klaskala said the tradition of pairing gumbo with rice stems from the Cajuns, whereas the use of potatoes and andouille sausage comes from German influence.
When preparing gumbo herself, Klaska likes to add okra and seafood and goes for a “peanut butter brown” roux, noting that the longer a roux cooks, the weaker it gets.
Gumbo separates itself from stews and soups in that its “thickness almost teeters to a sauce to go over rice or potato salad.”
Klaskala also said that gumbo’s origin goes over the top with its many influences, making it different from a soup or stew.
Eric Cook, the executive chef and owner of Gris-Gris and Saint John, says no one will win the great gumbo preparation debate. He believes gumbo is a generational dish meant to feed the family and bring people together.
“The best gumbo you’ll find is in homes in those quiet little neighborhoods of South Louisiana,” said Cook.
At its core, he said gumbo is a working food, meaning it can sit in the pot and cook while people work during the day.
Gumbo is a staple for many in South Louisiana and Cook said most people’s first experience with the dish is in the home.
“We all lean into what’s instilled,” he said.
The preparation of gumbo often varies from block to block, but it’s all about sharing a love for cooking and engaging with the heritage.
Cook’s key to a good gumbo is keeping it simple and letting the ingredients speak for themselves. A flavorful, light broth, a dark roux and seasonal game are all you need.
“A good gumbo begins with a good roux and it took me decades to perfect mine and really understand the process,” Cook said.
When it comes to the preference of potato salad or rice, Cook prefers rice. However, he always has potato salad ready for those friends who grew up making the dish that way.
When it comes to tomatoes, he says, “absolutely no tomatoes.”
While some may be divided about gumbo’s preparation, Cook believes that no matter how you cook it, gumbo — and food in general — has the power to bring people together.
“Sharing dinner around the table and seeing how it brings people together is gumbo at its heart,” said Cook.
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